Grom Surf

I took the groms down the beach and they had a fine time. I let them float around the bay for a bit on my board and they yelled "hard core!" the whole time. The waves were awful, but when the kiddos are around it's all good.

When we got home, my oldest son said, "I don't think I'm a surfer." I said, "Heck yes you are. My dad surfed. I surf. You surf. It's what the W***** men do."

Granted, we may not be very good at it, but we still do it. ;)

Laying Low

I took several days off, but decided to get after it again. Very mellow session. I had to jockey for position, but I guess that's to be expected on the 5th of July. I didn't see anyone I knew, except for a homeless guy. We chatted for a few minutes and that was that.

The Tour de France is on now and later there will be baseball. I goddamn love sports.

Half Way Through 2009

Still the prettiest beach to get punched in the face at.

In the first six months of 2009, I've logged 99 sessions. Not great, but not bad either. I've had some fun and some suck. Today was pretty fun. Ran into some familiar faces and enjoyed the session.

Now I'm home. I'm enjoying a glass of red grape, ginger and lemon juice. And later there will be baseball.

Peace.

It's Okay To Be Shameful

Chill dawn patrol. I was patient as I waited and waited for some fun ones. Even though I had to do the paddle of shame, it was alright. I chatted with some beginners and I even rescued some gooey sea slugs that had been dry-docked when the tide dropped. Not bad for a 2' day.

Hot or Cold

If I understand the eventual end of the universe properly, there's either going to be a heat death or a cold death. Heat death occurs when the universe finally slows down, then begins contracting. As all of the mass in the universe gets closer and closer, temperatures rise and the whole thing will end in beyond-imagination heat and fire. Or it will get cold.

The universe might keep expanding forever. Stars, galaxies and all the stuff that makes up the universe becomes more and more distant. All of the elements that are used to fuel nuclear fusion and the creation of new stars and worlds runs out. The universe dies a frigid death in an infinite void.

I thought about all of these things today, as well as the fact that humans are too smart for their own good. We can theorize about the end of the universe and even apply physics to the problem. We can send probes to other planets and transplant hearts.

But we also divorce one another, drink and drive, get depressed, lie, steal, lay awake at night with self-loathing and cheat. And no, I'm not hinting that any of those sins are ones committed by me. I'm just sayin'.

Sometimes I think we are like caged monkeys. We are self-aware enough to know were trapped, but we lack the power to free ourselves.

And then we die. And we're dead for a long, long time. Forever, in fact.

These thoughts came to me because it was so damn flat out there today. Weak wind swell and paddling too hard for mush. I don't want to ponder human morality and astronomy. I just want to get shacked and gibber like a lunatic as I get spit out of the barrel.

That is all. The Dodgers take the field in two hours, so good night and good fight.

Mid-Day Weird

I am creature of habit. During the week from September through June I surf in the afternoon. During the winter I surf in the morning up north. During summer I surf dawn patrols at beer can beach.

So for me it was really weird being in the water at 11:00. It felt odd, as if I should be somewhere else doing something, like working or studying or anything. It's hard to explain, but I felt like I was a stranger at a break I know like the back of my hand.

I caught 5 fun ones and went in. Too weird.

Happy Father's Day

I had myself a nice little session. Father's Day is always tough for me, but I'm making the most of it. Surfing, cooking and Dodgers. Keep on keepin' on.