Wu Wei

It wasn't supposed to be fun today according to the report. However, it was sunny, offshore and there were waist high peelers flowing from the point to the bay. You'd drop in, step on the inside rail to get slotted and just glide for days.

I recall dragging my hand on the face and just tripping out over how easy it was to be doing something so hard.

Wu Wei. Effort without effort. How many bad days do we have to endure in order to find a bit of perfection?

Redemption Session

Chest high on the sets, offshore, hardly any current, no leash needed. So chill and so fun. I had to pay for parking, but gave my ticket to some other dude as I was leaving. Keep the stoke flowing along...

I Was Wrong

I thought it was going to be fun, peaky windswell. No. It was thumping groundswell.

Dear God I am getting old.

Spent

I flailed around four days in a row this week. As a result, my shoulder is feeling thrashed, so I need to take a few days off. Ah, decay.

Eh...

It was pretty terrible, but still better than anything that happened at work.

Oh My

I caught a few fun waves and laughed at the welcome mat.

Flat But Perfect

I was chatting with another guy when a woman began wading into the water while her companion looked on. She yelled to us, "I was going to go skinny dipping , but you guys are out here."

The dude I was with smiled and replied, "Don't let us stop you."

Mellow day. Everyone at the beach was smiling, as they should be.

Ego

It could have been such an awesome session, but I let my ego get in the way. I just had to paddle out on my shortboard. I'm not sure what I'm trying to prove sometimes.

Forget It

I wasn't much worried about the runoff. I just had to get wet. It's supposed to get very, very warm over the next few days and the swell is fading. Crowds, yet no surf. Forget that. See you sometime next week. 

One For The Record Books

As I walked to the water I was thinking about what a freak fest this place can be. I had no idea what I was in for. Usually it was the humans that are the issue, but today it was all animal.

It began with the trio of harbor seals that decided they did not want me in the water. One of them approached me and began slapping his tail in the water to make a really big splash. He kept doing it and edging closer, so I paddled the hell in. After a while, the seals cruised down the beach and I went back out.

I couldn't have been in the water for more than 10 minutes when I saw a dog running down the beach. It looked at me, then ran straight into the water and paddled straight for me. It was slopping around, hitting my board with its paws and pretty much wanted to hang out. I worried about the pooch getting hit by a wave, so I decided to call it a day. The dog and I paddled in and he went running off down the beach.

What a day.