Bust

I was greeted by foggy, cold weather and at least 150 people in the water. It looked like a zoo. I was in a foul mood and not seeing any familiar faces in the water, I went home. I never do that. I always go, regardless of conditions, but not today.

That's okay, I guess. I'm sore from the past two days and I have a creative project I've been neglecting.

Happy New Year everyone. Be safe and merry!

Converted To The Superiority Of The Shared Surf Experience

Another gorgeous day. I finally had a chance to paddle out with Surfsister. What a treat. It was great to meet her family and to trade waves. Like all earnest people, the real life Surfsister was the same as the blog version. So great!

We ran into a lot of BCB regulars including Helen, Mel, Boun, Lori, and several others whose names I regrettably forgot. We talked about Pappy and Ryan and dearly wished they were with us in the water.

My new board continues to attract attention. Damn that thing is a dream. Sadly, I think I am forever hooked on nice boards. I think I would have a hard time riding another $380 pop-out. Snob! ;)

All in all, a fine day. Good vibes in the water (You take this one. No, you take this one. Fine, we'll both miss it.) and smiling faces in the lot. I'll be hitting it around 8:30 tomorrow, so if you want to drive by and call me a kook or share some waves, well, that's where I'll be.

Peace.

A Gorgeous Winter Day With Friends

I surfed Porto with Boun and several of his friends from Beer Can Beach. It was really, really cool to see so many smiling, familiar faces. Sometimes the solitary wave warrior routine gets old, you know?

We picked off at least 20 2' glassy waves and left the beach with tired arms. I am really starting to love my new board. I understand now how the weight of the board translates into down the line trim and stability. You can really stay out on the nose for a long time.

In the parking lot I ran into Josh, who works at Mollusk, and one of his friends. We talked boards and surf and it was all very, very cool.

Special day all in all.

Topanga Pedicure

It just wasn't very good out there today.

The Wrong Call

When I paddled out, I was feeling confident. I caught a few two footers and things were looking good. Freezing, but good. Then the tide started to drop and it went flat. And there I was. Freezing my ass off while watching seals, dolphins, pelicans, cormorants and gulls go by. A pretty morning, but flat nonetheless.

Caged

Damn I miss that little 6' 2". Snapped it at County Line last winter. What a waste. Oh well.

Can't wait for this weather to clear up. Feeling caged. I took a look at my entries and realized I've had one decent session in two weeks. No wonder why I'm grumpy. The weather is supposed to be nicer next week, but it's also going to be small balls.

To that I only have the usual refrain. Wait for it...oh well.

All Set

Thank you, Santa. I should be able to stick to my board for quite a while now. Thanks!

Happy Holidays

FFFFFUUUUUUUUU!

It was freezing cold and flat up north. I am a serious glutton for punishment. Oh well. Tomorrow will be better. Picked up two dings today - 1 in my board and the other in my foot. No worries, though. Both are patched.

I'm thinking Porto tomorrow.

You Have To Drive A Lot In LA

In San Diego you can't throw a rock without hitting a surf spot. Here in Los Angeles, you have to drive until the wheels fall off.

I ended up at Secos and had a nice little time. God I love that place.

That Was Chilly

Snuck out for a bit when the wind and rain stopped. It was glassy, short period and weak. The wind picked up when I got out of the water and that's when things got cold. I hear it's supposed to be rainy for the next few days. I guess it wouldn't be a winter break if I didn't spend a lot of time driving through the wind and rain to find rainy, windy surf. Weee!

Q&A

I started driving north this morning, but turned around. Rain and 1' windswell sounded like a really bad combo. I generally paddle out in anything, but I just wasn't feeling it.

I have a few questions about the weight of my new board that I hope someone can answer for me.

The epoxy I was riding is very light by comparison. I'm amazed by the difference. While at Zuma I noticed that once the heavier, newer board gets going, it paddles very easy. It's the getting going, though, that requires a bit more effort than I'm used to. What are the benefits of a heavier board? (I'm assuming the extra weight comes from the triple stringer and possibly 4/6/4 deck glass and 6 oz bottom glass.)

Finally, I learned the hard way that the noserider does not perform like an all rounder. MUST cross step back before making a turn or the rail will dig. This is kind of a problem for me. I like surfing beach breaks where you have to be able to turn quickly, but a noserider isn't so great at this. At least I think it isn't.

Has anyone had success riding a noserider at a beachbreak? If so, do you have any tips?

Overall, I feel like going to the noserider from an all rounder is like going from a shortboard to a fish. It's kind of the same, but not really.

Oh my. Kooook!

Found this photo of me at SunsetSurf.com. It was taken on October 5th, when we got that fun NW. If my arms weren't up in the air like I was trying to fly away, it might actually be a cool photo. Oh well.

I kook, therefore I am.

Boo!

Flat and terrible. It was hard to tell what the new board is like. The good news is that rain is on the way. And wind. Yay.

Surfing Is Life Affirming And Life Saving

I love the winter ritual, the getting up early and looking for waves when it's cold and one should be under warm blankets. Like Pappy says, "It's a beautiful life."

For Me? Holy Hell!

The other day I said that I would not be saving my money for a nice board. I just couldn't justify the expense.

Well, some people close to me took note of the sucky year I've been having, as well as my rough finances, and they hooked me up.

3/2 O'Neill fullsuit to replace my tattered one
board bag
wax

And to go in that bag? A freaking sweet 9'2" Anderson, Brothers Marshall model. And who was hanging out in Mollusk when I picked it up? Anderson team rider Joey Hawkins!

I have such mixed emotions right now. Stoke, guilt, stoke and more guilt. I have to accept that this is a gift. A gift. That's it. I need to accept it graciously and not think, "Gee, I should sell it and pay a few bills or put the money in my savings account."

Just accept it with the spirit it was given and surf with a big goddamn smile on my face.

Fun

Went up north this morning and ended up at Zuma. I love that place in winter. I surfed a wee peak with one guy for about an hour and a half. Forced myself to get out of the water to save my shoulders. Such a fun, fun morning despite the 2' knee slappers.

Umm...

Chilly, windy and flat. Oh, and the water was dirty. What an epic combo! Oh well.

I was given a coat and hoodie sweatshirt at work, but I really wasn't feeling them. On the way home I stopped and gave them to a homeless lady near Gladstones. I hope that she can either use them or trade them. She wished me a Happy Christmas, but that was hard to take. Things are so damn hard right now, but I am well off by comparison. No need to wish me anything. Why the hell we can't bail out some of the homeless along with AIG, the Big Three, etc is beyond me.

Speaking of money, I've decided against saving my pennies for a custom board. It's an excess I can't justify. My epoxy nightmare is just fine. It floats (sort of) , I ride it well (I hope), and so on. I guess I don't care what's under my feet as long as something is.

In related news, I'm giving two boards away this weekend. I've two friends who are stoked to learn and need sticks. I think they'll be pleased. Tis the season and all that.

Brrr...

It was really, really cold out there this morning. I hadn't been up north in some time, so I forgot how weird it feels to be the first person out. Spooky, kind of.

PT It Is

The orthopedic surgeon and I have agreed to physical therapy. While I'm not sure it will help, I want some more time before I have another surgery. I've had two in the past year and would like to wait a bit. Hell, I'm still sore from the last one.

The weather was horrid after work, so I'm hoping that tomorrow I can trek north. Just one or two quick ones and I'll be happy.

In The Mix

Two dudes brave BCB's polluted waters.

I dug out my gloves and booties for tomorrow's trek north. I don't know if I'll get shut out by weather, but I don't care. I just want to jump in the ocean. It trips me out when people tell me they are afraid of the sea. Much of the life on our planet originated out there, then heaved itself onto the land to diversify and evolve. Going out into the ocean is like returning to where it all began. As Pappy would say, "It's a beautiful life."

Stopped by 9 Star on the way home to buy some 4 oz. cloth, wax (sticky bumps cool) and a copy of the Ding Repair Scriptures. I also picked the ding repairman's brain about how to achieve better results. Here's hoping that in a year or two my ding repair game will be tight.

Finally, I'm working on a little film. It will be called "My LA Winter." In a manner similar to "Summer Sliding," it will be a look at the surf in LA in winter. Through my eyes, at least. I'm working on one of the segments right now, which is about how it sometimes rains, so one might as well fix up a busted-ass board. When the segment is finished, I will post it.

I mention this because I really want to get some of this blog's readers (all 5 of you) involved. Maybe if a swell comes through (any swell will do), we could hook up. In addition to whatever riders I happen to catch with my lens, I'd be sure to get plenty of footage of you. Heck, who knows what may come of it. :)

Pappy! I'm going to be coming to you for an interview. I want to chat with you on surfing in LA in winter and your best memories of it.

Enjoy The Sinus Infection

After last night's deluge, the ocean literally stank. I could smell the water from the stairs. Nonetheless, I saw two dudes willing to brave the bacteria broth. Enjoy the sinus infection, fellas.

Not sure what the weather is going to do, but I'm thinking about heading north Wednesday afternoon. Maybe find a spot that is protected from the wind via kelp, but will work at a mid to lowish tide. Hopefully find a spot that doesn't have storm drains emptying into it.

In other news, I'm fixing a busted-up board and making a little film about it. I hope to pass it on to either an eager beginner or someone looking for step down. It's a 7' 10" John Kies that still has some life in it.

Don't Blame The Slugs

Mellow session on Friday.

In other news, I'm going to start saving my pennies. I hope that in a year I can afford to have someone shape me a 9' 6"with long, parallel rails, minimal entry and tail rocker, and perhaps a tail that is only slightly pulled in to a squash. Basically a nose rider, but one that's only 9' 6" instead of 10'. (I can only fit a 9' 6" in my car.)

As I get closer to my savings goal, I'll ask around to see if anyone knows a shaper who can work within my budget. I can buy a Surftech version of the board I want, but I think it's time to go local.

Why

It wasn't much, but there was plenty of it. I rode some waves, poked some sea slugs, picked up some trash and wondered why everything gets so gnarly once you leave the sand.

Sunset

It was pretty out there, but not very good.

Who knows?

I caught some fun rides today. Not great, but enjoyable nonetheless. Saw some friendly, familiar faces and worked a takeoff spot all by myself. A janitor paddled over and sat on me for a while, but he went away after a bit.

When I went home, an e-mail from the orthopedic surgeon awaited me. He says that arthroscopic surgery might be in order. He knows there's inflammation, but doesn't think the impingement is that severe. He also doesn't think the MRI shows a tear. Then again, If he goes in and doesn't find much, I'll be out of the water for several weeks and I'll still be sore. So maybe we'll try PT. Who knows.

I'm relieved and frustrated at the same time. I've had two surgeries in the past year and don't want any more. Hell, my guts still hurt like a son of a bitch from the last one. Then again, I'm tired of my arm hurting all the time.

Eh, we'll see. In the meantime, I'll enjoy each ride and just keep on keepin' on.

VSR Slideshow

Matt from the Venice Surf Report posted 27 photos showing a pretty sweet ride. I put them together in my video editing software and it came out pretty neat looking. I'm sure that I can imporve upon the process, but the technique is promising.

WARNING: Blogger's video streaming has been really pissy lately. The video might not play. If so, check back in a few days.

Gimme Space

It wasn't very good, but that was fine by me. I had plenty of space to do my thing. I surfed in silence and was at peace. Just doing my own thing in my own way. 90 minutes of freedom...

Almost Watertight

I surfed that newly repaired board today and had a fine time. It's a decent ride and must have been awesome when it was a freshie.

My brother-in-law was in the lineup with me and that was really cool. I know I go on and on about the solitary experience, but damn it's nice to laugh and joke in the line-up. Don't ask me how ('cause I don't know), but I found myself yelling "Get to tha choppa!" in my best Arnold accent everytime a set wave loomed.

When I got home, I started looking for leaks and I inevitably found a few. Five of the seven ding repairs held, but a few were weepy. I also found two more baby dings. Oh well. I knew there would be some. I'll let the board dry out and I'll patch them this weekend.

Off The Scrap Heap

I finally patched up my buddy's old longboard. I spent a lot of time on that log. I grew pretty fond of it as a result. Can't wait to get it back out into the water.

The Sound of One Kook Bailing

Feeling thrashed. Tired and worked from a long week. By the time I was able to hit it, the wind was blowing slightly, there was too much water in the bay and it was pretty crowded. I had three good days in a row, though. I even got to surf with my friend Mary, so it was just fine.

As I was sitting on the beach afterward, I was thinking about how a surf spot really doesn't belong to anyone. As soon as some hard-assed local who "owns" the break gets out of the water, a complete barnyard might slip in. Both guys have a great time surfing. While the ability of each surfer in relation to one another can be debated, it's still relative. I like to think that when it comes to humans, the diversity of experience is so vast that there are few absolutes.

I guess it's up to each surfer to define the quality of their own experience. That's something I struggle with. I know when I'm having fun and I know when I'm not. I'm just not always sure why. Does it have to deal with my ability, perceived potential, fading athleticism or my skill relative to others? I don't know.

I think that's why I often enjoy surfing alone. It's just me, my board and the water. Stripped down to such basic properties, nothing else really matters. I stop thinking. I stop caring. There's no competition, net even with myself.

It just is.

peace

Real Good Girl

Three good days in a row. Not epic, but solid. As usual, I found a little peak and surfed it all by myself, just doing my thing. I chatted with a very cool janitor. I was paddling for a wave he was on, but I backed out. When he made his way back into the line-up he demanded that I drop in on him next time. Dude had a great attitude. Right on, brother. I saw my friend Kirsten and we got caught up.

What a great time. Knee-paddling into waves, stepping to the nose on a few and my guts were feeling alright. I love winter.

My bat says, "Go away."

It was a lot of fun out there. I checked Crime Scene, but I wasn't feeling it. Still craving something mellow, I went back to Beer Can Beach. It was really fun. Paddled for 5, caught them all and had a big smile on my face. My guts were sore, but that's okay. Sometimes you just have to finesse your way through it.

I ran into a couple that surf there almost every day. They started as beginners and it's been cool to see them progress. They have suffered through some cold ass winters, so good for them. I love seeing that level of stoke. We wished one another well, then the weirdness began.

As I was changing a fellow shuffled up to me. I moved my bag so that I could grab my bat.

"Hello, friend, what is your name." He clutched at a backpack and looked at me hopefully.

"Listen, man. I don't talk to people at the beach." I went about my business, pretending he wasn't there.

He stood around for a few moments then shuffled off. I don't know what he wanted, but I got robbed at BCB last spring, so I have no patience for denizens. I snapped some photos, then drove home, where a blizzard of paperwork awaited me. Total buzzkill.

It's just easier in the water, you know?

I went back.

I went back. I always go back. I have no willpower over where I surf. I just go. *sigh*

Fortunately for me, it was a good call. I got into the water late after being pinned down in a meeting. Chatted with my buddy John, who is working hard to master a 70s era, diamond railed board like Gerry Lopez used at Pipe back in the day. I paddled for four, caught four, then went in, guts intact.

As I walked along the sand, some guy was doing calisthenics. He said to me, "Next time, I'll be out there with you guys!" Dude was stoked. You could just see it in his eyes that he wanted to charge.

"Careful." I said. "It will change your life."

I peeled off the wettie, checked my incision, was happy with what I saw, then head for home to trade e-mails with the orthopedic surgeon. Sometimes Beer Can Beach is a real bitch, but not today.

Argh!

There's a bit of a swell in the water. Not wanting to strain my guts too much, I went in search of something mellow. I figured that I'd hit Beer Can Beach. In theory it was a good idea. In theory. Man, I wish someone would punch me in the chest every time I surf there. While it's small and mushy, it's, well, small and mushy. And tide sensitive. And gutless. And riddled with donkeys. *sigh* I'm just never going to learn my lesson with that place.

Tomorrow it's back to the Crime Scene. (Pappy's new gloss for the neighboring point.) While it remains a great place to get punched in the face, it's a superior surfing experience.