
It was a nice little session. The waves were bad, but the lack of crowd and cool temperatures made it all worthwhile. I rode my pintail, which is always great.
I bought that board a year and a half ago after I had a tumor cut out of my neck. That sucked. Happy to be alive and kicking, I picked it up during a trip to Santa Barbara. Ripper has logged some sessions on that board and my brother in law, too. Under that sticker is an ugly patch from when Matt Camp slammed into me at Staircase. It's a special board and I love riding the hell out of it.

0 comments:
Post a Comment