The good news is that I picked off three 2' peelers that went for a surprisingly long way. I was surfing my thrasher board, so I didn't mind bumping the fin on the rocks at the end of the ride. It was warm, glassy and I could look down into the water and see sea stars and leopard sharks.
But that goodness was sandwiched between the kind of shit that makes surfing in LA a drag. Yet again, I got into it with a city worker. We jawed at one another over a parking spot. We each held our ground and didn't lose our tempers, but it still sucked. I surfed the Crime Scene, but had to park near the Chart House due to crowding. Chart House? Are you kidding me?!
Then it took nearly an hour to drive the 8 miles home.
Mary's right. I need a break. But Ryan's right, too, when he says that any day of surf is a good day.
*sigh*
There's gotta be another way. Gotta be a better way.
4 comments:
Nobody surfs forever! Take a break, get into something else, or, sit on the beach and shoot it all, or, do what I used to do, get up at 4am be in the water at ass crack of dawn, it's light at 5:15 surf till 6:45 and when all the Barney's are waxing up, your going home.
Pappy, you read my mind. This summer I'll be going to bed very early, paddling out before sun rise and on my way home before the masses descend.
I agree with Pappy
super dawn patrol is the way to go when its like that and your NOT.
In, make the kill, then out, without saying boo ta' no one.
Pre-dawn patroller here as well. Beat 'em all to the punch.
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